Oct
22

A question to ponder while I’m on the road

By Kelsey

Today I’m speaking to a sold out crowd at the Friends of the Amherst Library’s Annual Author Luncheon. I’ll be gone all day. It’s a 4.5 hour drive. I have to be there by 11, which means I have to get up WAY too early. By the numbers: I’ll be driving 9 hours to speak for 1.

That said, I’m really looking forward to it.

Here’s your question:

If you could go anywhere that was a 4.5-hour trip (plane, train, or automobile) away, where would you go? (Bet it’s not Amherst!) Post in the comments below and/or tweet me @kelseytimmerman (I need something to keep me busy while I drive clear across Indiana and Ohio!)

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Oct
12

Record NPR-quality audio from your travels

By Kelsey

Kelsey Recording

I’m back on the World Vision Report this week with my piece about rescuing a bird in Phnom Penh, Cambodia.

I’m especially excited about this piece because it’s set to sounds I recorded with my mini-disc player I purchased before my 2007 trip. I’m pretty much a beginner when it comes to recording audio, but the folks at the World Vision Report have been awesome and offered great advice.

The only other piece that features audio captured while traveling was my interview with Bibi Russell in Bangladesh.

Sometimes I record the essays at home using my mini-disc player, and other times they have me record at Indiana Public Radio’s studio on the Ball State campus. Either way, I’m coached by a producer. I have a way of dropping T’s and doing other lazy thing with this fat southern-ish tongue I have in my mouth.

If you’re interested in recording audio on your travels, I have this mini-disc recorder and this mic.

Transom.org is a great place to get started learning about the process. They have a really great interview in which This American Life Host Ira Glass gives his radio Manifesto. I use Audacity (it’s free!) to edit my audio. Mainly I just cut it and let the pros do all the fancy layering and other stuff. The version of Audacity I use has a tendency to lock up, so I save often. I probably should download the latest one.

My biggest problem with recording is how the presence of a mic held in ones face changes their behavior. Heck, sometimes I think my moleskine notebook gets in the way. The best quotes and conversation always seem to take place when my hands are free and I’m focused on the person who I’m talking with 100%. This is definitely something I’m going to have to get over.

If you want to hear more of my essays on the World Vision Report, here they are!

My flickr photo set from my escapades trying to Rescue the bird in Cambodia…

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Sep
22

The World’s Craziest Traveler

By Kelsey

20090501_r29_0520As someone who has had to answer the question, “So what brings you to Bangladesh?” by holding up a pair of Jingle These Christmas boxers and saying, “My underwear were made here,” some might think I could vie for the title of The World’s Craziest Traveler.

But there’s a whole level of crazy that can’t be matched by underwear quests funded by second mortgages.

I was working at an adventure outfitter in North Carolina, when I encountered the craziest traveler I’ve ever met.

“I need a sleeping bag,” the man said, “a warm one.”

He looked normal enough: well dressed, bathed, no slobber.

“Where you heading?” I asked, expecting to hear something about the nearby Blue Ridge Mountains or maybe even a trip to the Rockies.

“Turkey.”

“Turkey?” The question was out there before I saw the twinkle in his eye. The twinkle that said, “I’m nuts and could pee in the corner or eat long underwear or book a trip to Turkey for bold and exciting and spiritually life-changing reasons that I’m about to tell you about for the next two hours.”

And he did.

The only thing crazier than the look in his eyes was his mission. He had been reading the Bible and noticed a pattern of prime numbers.

“Remind me, what’s a prime number again?”

Anyhow, this pattern of prime numbers had tipped him off to the location of Noah’s Ark on a mountain in Turkey and he was going to need a really warm sleeping bag because it was a really tall mountain and their was tribal infighting in the region that would make staying at a guesthouse difficult.

My co-worker knew his daughter and that he was recently divorced. His jittery hands hinted that his long nights pouring over the Bible were accompanied with a steady supply of stiff drinks.

Whether he had found religion or was looking for it, was anyone’s guess.

We didn’t have a sleeping bag prepared for the elements he would be facing and would have to order one in. But before we did, my co-worker and I discussed if ordering him a new bag with full knowledge of what he intended to use it for made us complicit in his imminent death.

We ordered it and then didn’t see him until months later. He was alive and looked mostly sane.

I was dying to know what happened in Turkey or if Turkey happened at all, but I didn’t ask. I knew he hadn’t found the Ark. That’s the kind of thing that you would hear about. But I was concerned that he would tell me what he did find, whether it was religion or himself or a Turkish bride.

Besides, I didn’t have the time to listen. I was planning my own trip to Honduras because that’s where my favorite T-shirt was made.

-

Got a candidate worthy of the title The World’s Craziest Traveler?


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Sep
14

Grameen Bank: Small loans, a big difference

By Kelsey

(This weekend I got into a conversation on Twitter with @sloane about microfinance. The Grameen Bank is a shining example of how giving women access to credit can lift families out of poverty. Here are a few photos I took when I visited the Grameen Bank in Bangladesh in 2007 . Below that is an excerpt from “Where Am I Wearing? about the experience. )

Nobel Peace Prize winner Mohammad Yunnus believes in Bangladesh, too. He formed the Grameen Bank, which gives microcredit loans to people who couldn’t get loans from a traditional bank.

I went with a representative of the Bank to see the program in action.

Thirty women sat shoulder-to-shoulder on wood benches in the bare building framed with bamboo and covered in corrugated metal sheeting. The Bank’s regional manager called out names from his ledger. One-by-one, the women approached his table at the front of the room and made their group’s loan payment.

To get a loan from the bank, a woman must find other women to form a small group. If she doesn’t pay back her loan, it hurts the chances of the other women in her group obtaining future loans. The group provides support and a sort of peer pressure to pay back the loans. If a borrower cannot pay back the loan, she reflects poorly on her group. The Bank doesn’t take their home or their livestock. There is no collateral.

Amazingly, 98 percent of the loans are paid back, and the Bank has lent to over seven million borrowers.

Lovli is only 55, but she looks 75. That’s what life as a beggar will do to you. She used her loan to buy bags of gummy candy to sell. Now she makes twice as much money as she did begging.

Shokinan bought a cow with her first loan. After she paid the loan back, she bought a home. After she paid that one back, she built rooms near her home to rent out. Now, she owns more than 60 rooms. Her first loan was for $57 and her last for $4,200. She has come a long way from owning one cow.

Shilpi works at a garment factory, earning $25 per month, but she has started her own business on the side making pants and shirts. She used her loans from the Grameen Bank to buy her sewing machine and materials. She’s 26, has two sons (nine and eleven) and only attended three years of school. When I asked her where she saw herself in 10 years, she got really excited. She smiled, pointing this way and that. I didn’t have a clue as to what she was saying, but I could tell she had big plans.

A first time loan might be only $5. That’s all it takes to empower these women to see beyond the needs of today, to imagine a better life for their children, to give them hope.

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Aug
3

The Most interesting Man in the World Syndrome

By Kelsey

Yesterday I cracked open a Dos Equis.

Why?

Because it was a rest day from my marathon training (ran 12 miles yesterday) and I’m a total sucker for their “The Most Interesting Man in the World” commercials so I bought a 6 pack.

YouTube Preview Image

Have you ever met a traveler that acted and talked as if he or she was the most interesting person in the World?

If you mention kitty litter, they’ve got a tail about their trip in the Ukraine.  Mention a hat and they’ll rundown a list of hats and their cultural significance arranged by country alphabetically.  Don’t even talk about politics!

The thing I really find funny about the Dos Equis ads are that I’ve met people who…

…said they were questioned by the police because they found them interesting.

….feel that their beard has experienced more than a lesser man’s entire body.

…live vicariously through themselves.

…think others hang on their every word..even their prepositions.

…claim that they can speak French in Russian.

I’ve got a lot of travel stories and they tend to pop-up in conversations here and there.  But I’m constantly guarding against The Most Interesting Man in the World Syndrome (MIMIWS).  Heck, I don’t ever think that I’m the most interesting man in the room, but I worry that if Bucharest, Bangladesh, Nicaragua, Nepal, and other places work themselves too readily into the conversation, it might look like I’m campaigning for the title.

When I’m in a conversation for very long at some point something will remind me of somewhere I’ve been or I’ll bring up somewhere I’ve been to make a point.  Much of the last eight years of my life have taken place somewhere else.  Even when I wasn’t somewhere else, I was probably writing about somewhere else.

I’ve been a lot of places, but that doesn’t make me any more interesting.  It just means that I’ve been made fun of in more languages than you.

Last week I was having dinner with some folks I just met and they asked me if I had ever been to New York City.  My response was that I had, but I didn’t see much of the city because I was basically held hostage by Tibetan monks I had befriended in Nepal who forced me to watch home videos keeping me from seeing much of the city.

Looking back I should have just lied and said no.

Next, the conversation turned to Dracula, as it tends to do.  I mentioned that I had spent the night alone in Dracula’s Castle in Romania.

While expanding on the Dracula tale I started to feel a twinge of MIMIWS.  After that I decided to withhold other travel stories related to our winding conversation.  When hitchhiking came up, I didn’t mention hitchhiking in Kosovo.  When manners were discussed, I didn’t talk about Bangladesh and the lack of utensils.

I’m a little overly sensitive when it comes to MIMIWS.  I think it’s because I’ve I had hours at a time stolen by people suffering from the disease. After social gatherings I’ll sometimes ask my wife if I sounded like I thought “my blood smells like cologne” or that I could “disarm you with my looks or my hands…either way.”

She’s yet to say that I over did it.  She would, if I did.  Trust me. This is the same woman who recently told me she started dating me because she felt sorry for me.

Perhaps that’s the best cure for MIMIWS: a woman that’ll put you in your place.

A question: Have you suffered MIMIWS or know someone who has?

And one last thing…

Stay thirsty my friends.

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Jul
6

Zoo Rant: A tale of Two Elephants

By Kelsey

I was walking down the street in Jhalakthi, Bangladesh, when an elephant asked me for a dollar bill.

The elephant’s snout was smeared with red paint and two smiling locals sat atop his back. The crowded streets managed to make way for the elephant. Kids smiled and pointed. Rickshaw drivers piled on the sidewalk.

They all stared at me. The tiny proboscis at the end of the elephant’s trunk wiggled with anticipation.

I reached into my pocket, pulled out some money, and the elephant ever so gently picked it from my hand.

I pitied the elephant. She was trapped in a life of cheap tricks and crowded streets. I can still see the coarse black hairs bristling her trunk. I can hear her breath and see her snotty snout.

This weekend I was reminded of the elephant on a visit to the Indianapolis Zoo with Annie, Harper, my brother, and his wife. At the elephant show, the trainers picked a boy out of the crowd. To demonstrate the dexterity of its trunk, they instructed the boy to hold up a dollar bill for the elephant to grab.

Harper watched. She hasn’t been exposed to many types of animals other than our cat Oreo. I imagined her thinking, “That’s the biggest kitty I’ve ever seen.”

Everyone clapped as the elephant handed the dollar to the trainer. In Bangladesh the riders atop the elephant stuffed their shirt pockets with the money, but the zookeeper gave the dollar back to the boy.

At the end of the show, as the elephant and trainer alike waved to the crowd, the elephant took a dump. Everyone laughed.

I felt sorry for the elephant.

I’ve always felt sorry for animals at the zoo, but assured myself the difference between animals at the zoo and the Bangladeshi elephant walking down the street asking for money was that the zoo raised awareness.

The zoo animals are ambassadors for their wild kin. We see the beauty, even if caged, in the zoo animals and project that to the savannas of Africa, the reefs of Australia, the jungles of South America. Many of us will never see an elephant in the wild, but we can at the zoo. The zoo can help us give a darn about a shrinking rainforest, poaching, dying habitats, and dying species.

The zoo can help, but does it?

This weekend the Indianapolis zoo did not.

After watching the elephant perform its tricks, the trainers informed us that there was a way we could help the elephants around the world. I waited. How can I help the elephants? I’m ready. And then they told us how…

“Unplug your cell phone charger when not in use.”

That’s it? That’s the big message? I don’t think it’s a coincident that the elephant punctuated the message with a big pile of poop.

I was telling a friend about this and we were trying to figure out how plugged in cell phone chargers threatened elephants. Sure, there is the energy equals greenhouse gases equals lost habitat relationship, but that’s pretty distant, especially for a kid. My buddy suggested that some cell phone chargers in cars can catch fire and that if you had an elephant in your car, the fire might kill the elephant.

After the elephant show we went to the dolphin show. There we were greeted by a message asking for money that was the equivalent of an elephant reaching for a dollar bill. At the show’s end we were left with the same “unplug your cell phone charger” message.

I was ashamed for the zoo. I was ashamed for my $28 that I handed to the teller at the gate.

I’m not against elephants performing in zoos. Some are, including Lily Tomlin. But I am against elephants performing in zoos that don’t take advantage of the opportunity to educate thousands of daily visitors how they can help the elephants.

Really it’s the same thing I ask of the anti-sweatshop activists: Tell us why we should care and then tell us how.

Ways to help the elephants aren’t hard to find. Here’s one.

Here’s another. Send this letter to the Indianapolis Zoo at publicrelations@indyzoo.com :

I love going to the zoo, but I was disappointed when I read an account of your dolphin and elephant shows on author Kelsey Timmerman’s blog www.whereamiwearing.com.

Kelsey was frustrated that you didn’t make much of an effort to encourage conservation beyond “unplug your cell phone chargers when they are not in use.” I hope that you’ll revise your message to encourage your visitors to do more.

Zoos should play an important role in educating our children about shrinking rainforests, poaching, dying habitats, and dying species. Zoos have the opportunity to connect us with animals from around the world and empower us to champion their cause. It’s an opportunity that should not be wasted.

Update 7/8: The Zoo Responds

Dear Mr. Timmerman:
First, I want to thank you for your thoughtful message regarding the Zoo’s promotion of unplugging unused appliances. With your own wide experience of animals and habitats worldwide, your perspective is certainly of interest. I would like to express, however, our feelings and the reasons behind our program, both of which may give you a better understanding of what we’re doing – and hopefully, a more complete picture.
Certainly, African elephants face multiple pressures beyond a rapidly warming climate, including poaching and human-animal conflicts. We are working hard to deal with those issues as well. I sit on the Board of Directors of the International Elephant Foundation, the largest foundation in the world devoted solely to the welfare of elephants in the wild and in human care. Through the IEF, the Indianapolis Zoo has put more than $500,000 into the field in the last 10 years to protect elephants. In addition to IEF, we are working with the Tarangire Elephant Project in Tanzania to keep the remaining migration corridors into and out of Tarangire National Park open and safe for the fastest growing population of elephants on the African continent. Our concern for elephants extends beyond Africa. We have sent our professional keeper and veterinary staff into the field in Sumatra to provide care for Asian elephants that have been displaced into special camps.
In addition, the Indianapolis Zoo supports elephant conservation directly through our own research initiatives, through our many educational programs, and through the Indianapolis Prize. The Prize is a biennial award to an outstanding animal conservationist and consists of a $100,000 award and the Lilly Medal. Two Prizes have been awarded to date, the first in 2006 to International Crane Foundation co-founder Dr. George Archibald and the second in 2008 to legendary field biologist Dr. George Schaller. The Prize structure offers tremendous media support to all of its nominees, and especially to the six finalists from whom the winner is selected. In both of its first two cycles, Iain Douglas-Hamilton has been a finalist and has received our support through the Prize web site, news releases, direct links to Save the Elephants, an outreach program at the Zoo with audio recordings of Iain’s message, collector cards for kids with Save the Elephants information, and more. Iain is a long time friend of the Zoo, and he attended both the Prize Galas here in Indianapolis. We continue our support of Iain’s work in Kenya and will do so into the foreseeable future. In addition to our daily elephant chats and shows, we also feature our elephants during our annual Elephant Awareness Week special event.
That being said let me get to your point about the message to save “phantom” power by unplugging unused appliances. Several years ago, we decided to expand our messaging about the impact of climate change on wildlife. It’s a big subject that’s sometimes hard to get your hands around. Our thought process was that one method to make a quick, memorable impression on the maximum number of people was to break down actions into small, imminently doable tasks, the cumulative effect of which would make a real difference.
Nearly two years ago, we began an initiative called My Carbon Pledge, wherein we could promote pro-environmental messages in a sustained way, one at a time, over many months. We began last year with a message to switch out incandescent light bulbs for the more energy efficient CLFs. This year, we are promoting unplugging appliances, which can save consumers about 10% of their electric bill and remove 1% of CO2 emissions for that household. Next year, we will tackle another simple method to remove CO2 from our atmosphere. Why is such a seemingly small impact important?
Climate change may not be the most pressing problem facing some wildlife today, but that could change very quickly. Simon Stuart, Chair of the IUCN Species Survival Commission and Finalist for the 2006 Indianapolis Prize recently wrote that, “Unless we address the fundamental causes of unsustainability on our planet, the lofty goals of governments to reduce extinction rates will count for nothing.”
That is a warning that has been issued for a number of years now. Consider what Dr. Richard Leaky, former head of the Kenya Wildlife Service, had to say about the issue of climate change and African elephants in 2005.
“We can spend money trying to stop poaching, but there’s no point in doing that if the stuff in there is going anyway,” he noted in a BBC interview. “If the concern is symbolic species, there may well be a bigger threat from climate change than from utilization and poaching. Protected areas are now islands, said Dr Leakey. “The wildlife and fauna and flora are pretty well tied in by boundaries which aren’t oceans, in the sense of islands, but development.”
“And if there’s significant climate change, as is predicted, what’s going to happen to these areas? Paleontologically, island faunas become extinct.”
Indiana emits CO2 on an internationally important scale. The eight states that comprise the Midwest, including Indiana, collectively are the fifth largest emitter of CO2 on the planet, exceeded only by China, India, Japan, and Europe. That means we are a big part of the problem, but more importantly a big part of the solution to dealing with climate change. Asking Hoosiers to take whatever steps at their disposal, no matter how small and insignificant they might seem, to reduce CO2 emissions is an important conservation action – for not only the African elephant but many other species as well.
When it comes to a household like yours making a contribution to elephant conservation there are really two alternatives for you to consider: 1) donate money; and/or 2) cut your CO2 emissions. Asking folks to do the former is a bit of a hard sell in today’s economy. Asking you to reduce your electrical usage to curb CO2 emissions is something even the most modest household can participate in and feel good about.
I hope that helps you to understand that there is more going on here than just a message about unplugging appliances. If you are so inclined, I would certainly recommend visiting the web site, www.mycarbonpledge.com <https://www.mycarbonpledge.com> . There’s loads of information about climate change and its effects. I especially recommend the articles posted by our contributors – it’s fascinating stuff.

Again, thanks for writing and supporting the Zoo.

Paul Grayson, Deputy Director and Senior VP of Conservation & Science

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Jul
2

Faces of Honduras

By Kelsey

I’ve been watching/listening/browsing the news a lot lately for updates on Honduras. Usually after talks of Michael Jackson and Iran the coup gets a brief mention. When I hear the stories, I think back to my time in the country in 2005, which I briefly mention in my book, and I see faces.

These are a few of those faces…

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Jun
30

Michael Jackson and Dracula Were Here

By Kelsey

When I stood at Dracula’s grave in Romania my head was filled with one thought: “Michael Jackson was here.”

Vlad Tepes is the Dracula of history. He wasn’t a vampire, just a ruler who believed in corporal punishment, namely driving huge stakes through people and letting them slowly die. For this he earned his nickname The Impaler. Bram Stoker based his novel on Vlad.

Michael Jackson is Michael Jackson.

Vlad’s tomb is famous for two things: it’s empty and Michael Jackson visited it when he came to Romania on his Dangerous World Tour.

To get to the Snagov monastery where Vlad’s empty grave is I had to paddle two other tourists and my cab driver in a rowboat to the island where it sits. A family lives on the island and runs tours of the monastery.

The monastery you are picturing in your head is too big. Vlad’s monastery is closer to the size of an old brick abandoned schoolhouse that your grandma would point to and say, “That’s where my mom went to school” except a little more ornate. It’s about several hopscotches long and a few four-square courts wide. At the front there was a photocopy of Vlad with candles on each side that the caretakers lit after swinging open the doors.

Vlad was a tyrant. He murdered thousands and ruled by fear. He has been dead for centuries and still people talk about him. But standing there I could only think about the nugget of info in my guidebook that the King of Pop had visited the monastery.

Had he stood where I stood? Did the visitor’s book still have his signature in it? Did he have to row his own boat? Did the caretakers chase him out the door for snapping photos?

I realized that I had never been closer to Michael Jackson than at that moment on a small island in a small monastery in Romania.

Vlad rocked Romania with fear. MJ just rocked Romania. It’s likely that both will be remembered in myths and legends where they’ll be vilified and deified for centuries to come.

Here’s MJ in Bucharest 1992 performing a tune that Dracula could get his groove on to:

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Jun
21

Blog post past: Made In China

By Kelsey
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Jun
20

Blog post past: Made in Cambodia

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Contact Kelsey hi@kelseytimmerman.com

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