Jul
10

My All-American Cambodian Blue Jeans

By Kelsey

(With the relaunch of the new blog I’m highlighting old posts. I wrote this one in May of 2007 while in Cambodia.)

In the USA we didn’t invent the blue jean. We just made ‘em cool.

Jeans were first worn by the Italian Navy. But riveted jeans were first produced in San Francisco by Levi Strauss. He was a German immigrant. So, maybe blue jeans aren’t as All-American as I’d like to think, but I’ve got two words for you: James Dean.

Here’s one more: Fonzie

Levi’s has such a connection with the average American that they were one of the last companies to start sourcing internationally. The delay hurt them. It’s impossible to compete when your competition can make their product using labor that costs a fraction of what yours does.

So, now my Levi’s 501 Carpenter Pants are Made in Cambodia. Well, actually not anymore. Now that particular style is made in India. And the factory that gave life to my jeans in Phnom Penh doesn’t work with Levi’s anymore either. The Levi Sourcing Manager told me that the factory had issues with quality, efficiency, or meeting Levi’s labor standards.

The industry is nothing, if not fluid.


Levi’s

Their San Francisco office told me to contact the International Labour Organization when I arrived. This surprised me.

Every correspondence I’ve had with Levi’s or their factory has been a positive one. I won’t hesitate to buy a pair of Levi’s Made in Cambodia.

I visited the Roo Hsing factory. They washed my pants.


The Garment Miracle

In Cambodia the garment industry is seen as a miracle because it developed so fast (primarily in the last 10 years). It is Cambodia’s largest industry and accounted for about $2 billion in exports in 2006. Without the garment industry there wouldn’t be much of any industry in Cambodia.


A really, really short history of Cambodia

In the 1970’s, wiped-out by war. Awful stuff happened. People suffered before, and after. International aid organizations came to the rescue. Stuff still ain’t good.


Cambodia vs. Bangladesh

In Bangladesh I stopped traffic. I was too famous to attend rock concerts. In Cambodia I’m just another foreigner.

The presence of foreigners has shaped the garment industry here in Cambodia. There are many different organizations explaining the workers their rights and teaching them disease prevention (STD’s, malaria, dengue fever). The average worker in Cambodia gets paid about twice as much as the average one in Bangladesh.

The International Labour Organization monitors the factories and produces reports for the government and the brands that buy from the factories. I have a 62-page report from the ILO titled Women and Work In the Garment Industry. 62 pages! In one-month in Bangladesh I didn’t see a single page report.

The union I visited in Bangladesh was simply a bare room with 3 full-time employees and, as far as I know, it is the only union in the entire industry. Cambodia has 800 union and only 300 factories. Some of them are in actual offices too! Some are aligned with different political parties, some with the government, some with the factories themselves, and some are independent …kinda sort of. It’s pretty much a guarantee that if you are a factory owner, a bunch of people are going to be pissed at you no matter what you do.

In February, a union leader was shot and killed on his way home from work at the Suntex factory (where Kent’s underwear were made). I stopped in at their office and they aren’t sure who killed him. It could have been another union, it may have been the factory, or, they speculate, it even might have been the government!

The factories I saw in Bangladesh seemed to have okay conditions, but the pay sucked. In Cambodia the pay is okay and the conditions seem to be okay (although I haven’t toured any of the smaller operations that are usually the guilty parties of most of the violations).

But like I said, stuff still ain’t good.


The Workers

Chhuon, my translator, knew a neighborhood where some workers lived. We showed up and made some friends.

8 girls live in the 8’X12’ room.

A toilet is walled off in the corner.

A water spigot comes out of one wall. This is the washroom, the kitchen, and the laundry. If the door to their room isn’t shut passersby could watch them bathe from the street.

Two bamboo beds are pushed together. They’re big, but not big enough to sleep eight. Four of the girls sleep on the floor. It’s always the same four girls on the floor. They like it. The concrete may be harder, but it’s cooler. Once the window and door are shut and locked, for security purposes, there is not any ventilation. Eight people in a small room gets pretty hot.

Other than the beds, the only other piece of furniture is a metal clothing wrack, which holds the wardrobes of all eight girls.

Faded negative prints of Snow White and Cinderella posters hang on the wall. The girls don’t know either character. But there was an empty spot on the wall and they got a good deal on the posters at the market.

This might all sound depressing to some, but it isn’t really. The place is filled with giggly energy. It’s like being in a crowded room of college freshman co-eds, except these girls don’t go to class. They go to work and make our clothes.

They get paid a minimum of $50/month plus any overtime. That’s more than teachers in Cambodia get paid. It’s enough for them, but they have more people than themselves to be concerned about. The average worker supports seven people on her income.

The girls don’t like their job. But they don’t have much of a choice. Their family needs them to work, so they work. The worst part is that they live far from their families. Most of the workers are from villages in the provinces surrounding Phnom Penh. They miss being home. I wanted to see why, so I went with two of them back to their home village near the city of Kompong Cham.

Their villages are surrounded by green rice fields. The only thing more abundant than fresh air are friendly neighbors. There is enough fresh fruit to eat off the trees to make your belly ache.

I would rather live in the village than Phnom Penh…if they had internet.

Nari is 25. She’s outgoing and slightly oversized in all directions for a Cambodian girl. She had to pay a $50 for a man with connections at the factory to land her an interview. Her family owns pigs, fruit trees, and rice fields, but it’s not enough to support them. She sends money home so they can buy rice. She wants to open a beauty salon in her village and is currently taking classes in makeup application. She’ll fancy-up girls for their wedding day. Soon she will start learning how to do hair. She’s already purchased a hair iron and hopes to buy more equipment soon. She asks me a lot of questions about the cost of manicures in the USA and if girls wear extensions in their hair. I do my best to answer, but the truth is I haven’t touched my hair with a brush in ten years. Hers is the life of the average Cambodian.

Ai is 24. She’s shy, but quick to smile. She doesn’t have a contract with the factory and therefore can be fired at any time for any reason without justification. She irons some 10,000 pants/day. It’s a hot job. She would like to be a teacher, but has had only three years of education herself. She laughs when I tell her that some Americans wouldn’t buy Levi’s that were Made in Cambodia because they don’t think she’s treated fairly. Ai thinks this is ridiculous because if they don’t buy the jeans she won’t have a job. It seems simple. Her bosses won’t let her or any of her co-workers talk while they are working. She misses working in the rice fields around her village. In the rice fields they talked a lot. To get to her home we have to wade through two streams. Her father is a construction worker. He doesn’t own much more than their home. Their water buffalo was stolen two weeks ago. Her grandmother is worried about her safety in the city. Her mom visits her twice a year to bring her jackfruit, mangoes, darian, and a bunch of other fruits that I’ve never heard of. Two of Ai’s sisters live with her in Phnom Penh. They are also garment workers. Her family is poorer than Nari’s

Also, garment workers don’t like bowling. Who knew?


I came to Cambodia. I met the girls who made my pants. They giggled a lot.

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Jul
8

A fresh look at “Made in Italy”

By Kelsey

Today, like every day, I’m wearing glasses. They were made in Italy and I just made a horrible discovery: they are Dolce & Gabbana glasses.

That’s not “horrible” you’re probably thinking to yourself.

Obviously you don’t subscribe to Esquire Magazine.

Anytime I see D&G on a shirt or handbag my mind is flooded with the image that greets me each month I crack open a new Esquire. There’s this fella, who also looks like he was made in Italy, floating in what appears to be a life raft, but he looks too busy casually flexing his abs to be concerned about his life, so maybe it’s just a raft. Anyhow, he’s sweaty and is wearing a white Speedo (he definitely must be Italian). The Speedo has two strings with tiny metal aglets on the ends. The strings are way too short to tie into anything that could be labeled a knot, but even if they were long enough, they wouldn’t serve much of a purpose because they are on a Speedo.

The ad is for some type of cologne - or I should say eau de toilette. It was bad enough facing the white life raft speedo ad once a month - slowly turning the pages hoping the next one was not The Ad. But now that I know my LensCrafter’s glasses are D&G, I’m afraid I’ll be reminded each time I put them on.

Well, at least with such a high-end “Made in Italy” brand I don’t have to be concerned with the conditions in which my glasses were manufactured, right? That’s what I thought when I bought them.

I wasn’t shopping for a designer brand. I just wanted a pair of glasses that wouldn’t break or bend when I sat on them, as I often do. They looked sturdy and they were made in Italy, which I felt a little better about than all the others that were made in China.

But after a little digging I learned that “Made in Italy” doesn’t necessarily mean that a product is made by Italians. Sometimes it means Made by Imported Cheap Chinese Labor.

The Chinese workers work twice as long as their Italian counterparts and earn half as much. Much of their wage goes to paying off the debt they incurred to get to Italy. They are the indentured servants that neither Dolce nor Gabbana want us to know about.

“The Italians are funny like that,” one such Chinese workers told the UK’s Daily Mirror. “They want what we have to offer - they are so proud of their luxury handbags, shoes and clothes - but they would prefer that we weren’t seen or heard.”

An Italian manufacturer using Italian labor told the LA Times that he’s not happy about this either, “That’s plain wrong,” he said. “When you have a product like Prada or Dolce & Gabbana, you are not supposed to use illegal workers… ‘Made in Italy’ means tradition, know-how and standards. . . . It means not only made in Italy, but made in the Italian way.”

A recent piece on The World revealed a similar situation with Made in Spain products.

While newspapers report and labels are shamed, while brands cover up and consumers gripe, the Chinese workers, far from home, work away. Theirs is a tradition of hard work. And although their hours and wages are difficult for us to relate to, their motivation is not.

As one Chinese worker told The World: “A Spaniard might say I have my house and my car, I’m not going to work for 7 dollars an hour. But me, I’ll work for that wage for 12 hours, because the more I earn, the more I have, and my child will have a roof over his head.”

I’m not sure if my glasses were made by imported Chinese labor or not, but one thing is for sure: Next month when I flip open my new Esquire and am confronted with the fella in the white Speedo, I’ll be looking through the same pair of glasses as I did last month, but I’ll see things much differently.

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Jul
7

And the winner of the iPod is…

By Kelsey

Chuck!

Chuck wrote the song “Albino Sasquatch” (a great name for a band) which had the judges - Dan at Rule29, Larry, at Wiley, and me - rolling. I’ll send out emails to the runners up in the near future so they can choose from the other prizes: ARC of WAIW, Moju Project T-shirt, or writerly advice.

Without further ado…ALIBINO SASQUATCH

Kelsey is dancing to an autobiographical song that he wrote himself. Kelsey wrote the lyrics and Elton provided the melody. He plays it whenever he goes to a new place. It’s his way of introducing himself to the people.

I am the Albino Sasquatch
I’ve roamed all around this land
Be not afraid! I am friendly
Come shake my furry hand

I’ve been spotted down in Florida,
But Skunk Ape I am not
I hide my fur in a wetsuit
And hang out on a yacht

I was banned from my Yeti village
The peaceful land of my birth
Because my uncle caught me
Fondling Mrs. Butterworth

I used to be a Blackhawk,
But then my skin turned red
So I hung out in Cambodia
Until it was time to wed

Now I make my living writing books
And educating you as a voter
Just wait until the movie of my life
I’m played by Ricky Schroder!

My fur is covered by ugly shirts
So that I fit in to society
Buy my book so I can get some more
As you can see I need more variety

Please read the labels on your clothes
Don’t buy just ‘cause they’re pretty
I decided to run a marathon
So I can be just like P. Diddy

I am the Albino Sasquatch
But Harper just knows me as Dad
This song I wrote about myself
Because my dancing is so bad

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Jul
6

Zoo Rant: A tale of Two Elephants

By Kelsey

I was walking down the street in Jhalakthi, Bangladesh, when an elephant asked me for a dollar bill.

The elephant’s snout was smeared with red paint and two smiling locals sat atop his back. The crowded streets managed to make way for the elephant. Kids smiled and pointed. Rickshaw drivers piled on the sidewalk.

They all stared at me. The tiny proboscis at the end of the elephant’s trunk wiggled with anticipation.

I reached into my pocket, pulled out some money, and the elephant ever so gently picked it from my hand.

I pitied the elephant. She was trapped in a life of cheap tricks and crowded streets. I can still see the coarse black hairs bristling her trunk. I can hear her breath and see her snotty snout.

This weekend I was reminded of the elephant on a visit to the Indianapolis Zoo with Annie, Harper, my brother, and his wife. At the elephant show, the trainers picked a boy out of the crowd. To demonstrate the dexterity of its trunk, they instructed the boy to hold up a dollar bill for the elephant to grab.

Harper watched. She hasn’t been exposed to many types of animals other than our cat Oreo. I imagined her thinking, “That’s the biggest kitty I’ve ever seen.”

Everyone clapped as the elephant handed the dollar to the trainer. In Bangladesh the riders atop the elephant stuffed their shirt pockets with the money, but the zookeeper gave the dollar back to the boy.

At the end of the show, as the elephant and trainer alike waved to the crowd, the elephant took a dump. Everyone laughed.

I felt sorry for the elephant.

I’ve always felt sorry for animals at the zoo, but assured myself the difference between animals at the zoo and the Bangladeshi elephant walking down the street asking for money was that the zoo raised awareness.

The zoo animals are ambassadors for their wild kin. We see the beauty, even if caged, in the zoo animals and project that to the savannas of Africa, the reefs of Australia, the jungles of South America. Many of us will never see an elephant in the wild, but we can at the zoo. The zoo can help us give a darn about a shrinking rainforest, poaching, dying habitats, and dying species.

The zoo can help, but does it?

This weekend the Indianapolis zoo did not.

After watching the elephant perform its tricks, the trainers informed us that there was a way we could help the elephants around the world. I waited. How can I help the elephants? I’m ready. And then they told us how…

“Unplug your cell phone charger when not in use.”

That’s it? That’s the big message? I don’t think it’s a coincident that the elephant punctuated the message with a big pile of poop.

I was telling a friend about this and we were trying to figure out how plugged in cell phone chargers threatened elephants. Sure, there is the energy equals greenhouse gases equals lost habitat relationship, but that’s pretty distant, especially for a kid. My buddy suggested that some cell phone chargers in cars can catch fire and that if you had an elephant in your car, the fire might kill the elephant.

After the elephant show we went to the dolphin show. There we were greeted by a message asking for money that was the equivalent of an elephant reaching for a dollar bill. At the show’s end we were left with the same “unplug your cell phone charger” message.

I was ashamed for the zoo. I was ashamed for my $28 that I handed to the teller at the gate.

I’m not against elephants performing in zoos. Some are, including Lily Tomlin. But I am against elephants performing in zoos that don’t take advantage of the opportunity to educate thousands of daily visitors how they can help the elephants.

Really it’s the same thing I ask of the anti-sweatshop activists: Tell us why we should care and then tell us how.

Ways to help the elephants aren’t hard to find. Here’s one.

Here’s another. Send this letter to the Indianapolis Zoo at publicrelations@indyzoo.com :

I love going to the zoo, but I was disappointed when I read an account of your dolphin and elephant shows on author Kelsey Timmerman’s blog www.whereamiwearing.com.

Kelsey was frustrated that you didn’t make much of an effort to encourage conservation beyond “unplug your cell phone chargers when they are not in use.” I hope that you’ll revise your message to encourage your visitors to do more.

Zoos should play an important role in educating our children about shrinking rainforests, poaching, dying habitats, and dying species. Zoos have the opportunity to connect us with animals from around the world and empower us to champion their cause. It’s an opportunity that should not be wasted.

Update 7/8: The Zoo Responds

Dear Mr. Timmerman:
First, I want to thank you for your thoughtful message regarding the Zoo’s promotion of unplugging unused appliances. With your own wide experience of animals and habitats worldwide, your perspective is certainly of interest. I would like to express, however, our feelings and the reasons behind our program, both of which may give you a better understanding of what we’re doing – and hopefully, a more complete picture.
Certainly, African elephants face multiple pressures beyond a rapidly warming climate, including poaching and human-animal conflicts. We are working hard to deal with those issues as well. I sit on the Board of Directors of the International Elephant Foundation, the largest foundation in the world devoted solely to the welfare of elephants in the wild and in human care. Through the IEF, the Indianapolis Zoo has put more than $500,000 into the field in the last 10 years to protect elephants. In addition to IEF, we are working with the Tarangire Elephant Project in Tanzania to keep the remaining migration corridors into and out of Tarangire National Park open and safe for the fastest growing population of elephants on the African continent. Our concern for elephants extends beyond Africa. We have sent our professional keeper and veterinary staff into the field in Sumatra to provide care for Asian elephants that have been displaced into special camps.
In addition, the Indianapolis Zoo supports elephant conservation directly through our own research initiatives, through our many educational programs, and through the Indianapolis Prize. The Prize is a biennial award to an outstanding animal conservationist and consists of a $100,000 award and the Lilly Medal. Two Prizes have been awarded to date, the first in 2006 to International Crane Foundation co-founder Dr. George Archibald and the second in 2008 to legendary field biologist Dr. George Schaller. The Prize structure offers tremendous media support to all of its nominees, and especially to the six finalists from whom the winner is selected. In both of its first two cycles, Iain Douglas-Hamilton has been a finalist and has received our support through the Prize web site, news releases, direct links to Save the Elephants, an outreach program at the Zoo with audio recordings of Iain’s message, collector cards for kids with Save the Elephants information, and more. Iain is a long time friend of the Zoo, and he attended both the Prize Galas here in Indianapolis. We continue our support of Iain’s work in Kenya and will do so into the foreseeable future. In addition to our daily elephant chats and shows, we also feature our elephants during our annual Elephant Awareness Week special event.
That being said let me get to your point about the message to save “phantom” power by unplugging unused appliances. Several years ago, we decided to expand our messaging about the impact of climate change on wildlife. It’s a big subject that’s sometimes hard to get your hands around. Our thought process was that one method to make a quick, memorable impression on the maximum number of people was to break down actions into small, imminently doable tasks, the cumulative effect of which would make a real difference.
Nearly two years ago, we began an initiative called My Carbon Pledge, wherein we could promote pro-environmental messages in a sustained way, one at a time, over many months. We began last year with a message to switch out incandescent light bulbs for the more energy efficient CLFs. This year, we are promoting unplugging appliances, which can save consumers about 10% of their electric bill and remove 1% of CO2 emissions for that household. Next year, we will tackle another simple method to remove CO2 from our atmosphere. Why is such a seemingly small impact important?
Climate change may not be the most pressing problem facing some wildlife today, but that could change very quickly. Simon Stuart, Chair of the IUCN Species Survival Commission and Finalist for the 2006 Indianapolis Prize recently wrote that, “Unless we address the fundamental causes of unsustainability on our planet, the lofty goals of governments to reduce extinction rates will count for nothing.”
That is a warning that has been issued for a number of years now. Consider what Dr. Richard Leaky, former head of the Kenya Wildlife Service, had to say about the issue of climate change and African elephants in 2005.
“We can spend money trying to stop poaching, but there’s no point in doing that if the stuff in there is going anyway,” he noted in a BBC interview. “If the concern is symbolic species, there may well be a bigger threat from climate change than from utilization and poaching. Protected areas are now islands, said Dr Leakey. “The wildlife and fauna and flora are pretty well tied in by boundaries which aren’t oceans, in the sense of islands, but development.”
“And if there’s significant climate change, as is predicted, what’s going to happen to these areas? Paleontologically, island faunas become extinct.”
Indiana emits CO2 on an internationally important scale. The eight states that comprise the Midwest, including Indiana, collectively are the fifth largest emitter of CO2 on the planet, exceeded only by China, India, Japan, and Europe. That means we are a big part of the problem, but more importantly a big part of the solution to dealing with climate change. Asking Hoosiers to take whatever steps at their disposal, no matter how small and insignificant they might seem, to reduce CO2 emissions is an important conservation action – for not only the African elephant but many other species as well.
When it comes to a household like yours making a contribution to elephant conservation there are really two alternatives for you to consider: 1) donate money; and/or 2) cut your CO2 emissions. Asking folks to do the former is a bit of a hard sell in today’s economy. Asking you to reduce your electrical usage to curb CO2 emissions is something even the most modest household can participate in and feel good about.
I hope that helps you to understand that there is more going on here than just a message about unplugging appliances. If you are so inclined, I would certainly recommend visiting the web site, www.mycarbonpledge.com <https://www.mycarbonpledge.com> . There’s loads of information about climate change and its effects. I especially recommend the articles posted by our contributors – it’s fascinating stuff.

Again, thanks for writing and supporting the Zoo.

Paul Grayson, Deputy Director and Senior VP of Conservation & Science

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Jul
6

iPod contest update

By Kelsey

Okay, so I should have announced a winner last Thursday. What do you want to hear?

1. I should pay attention to my own contest rules and forgot that Thursday was the deadline.
2. There were so many great entries that it’s taking awhile and I had to enlist some assistance choosing who should win.
3. I was busy on Thursday and went to the zoo on Friday.

Actually, I’m going to plead all of the above.

I’ll announce the winners soon enough. Look, I should just keep the iPod for myself, seeing how the day this contest was conceived coincided with the washing and drying of my own iPod. My iPod is clean, but that’s about it.

Random thought: has anyone ever skipped an iPod like a stone. I bet those puppies go forever. If it weren’t for the whole littering bit, I’d give it a try.

Random thought 2: Who wants to join me in a business venture that commercially produces skipping rocks?

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Jul
2

Faces of Honduras

By Kelsey

I’ve been watching/listening/browsing the news a lot lately for updates on Honduras. Usually after talks of Michael Jackson and Iran the coup gets a brief mention. When I hear the stories, I think back to my time in the country in 2005, which I briefly mention in my book, and I see faces.

These are a few of those faces…

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Jul
1

“Guess where my undwear was made?” is the new “What’s your sign?”

By Kelsey

When you write a book about following the tags on your clothes around the world you get a lot of questions. The most common is “Why?” which acts as a constant reminder that there is a fine line between first-time author and crazy.

At a book reading a woman asked me to check the tag on her bra. In case there are some fellas that think this might’ve been a good thing, it was not.

People continually ask me where I am wearing. I normally know. I’ve pretty much committed to memory the countries of origin of every item in my wardrobe.

I also get “Guess where my shirt was made,” as if I were a carny that guessed things about people including their age, weight, and country of origin of their capris. The thing is, I’m getting pretty good at the country of origin guessing. I prefer to stay away from age and weight; those are dangerous waters, just one step better than running a “pregnant or not pregnant booth” where you guess if there is life or Oreos in a woman’s belly.

In case you find yourself confronted with the “guess where I am wearing” request, I thought I would share some of my secrets with you.

Shoes are easy. Always guess China. You’ll get it it right at least 80% of the time.

When I have to guess the origin of a T-shirt, I always guess Honduras. About 2 million new shirts hit the shelves per year in the U.S. and 20% of them come from Honduras. If you’ve given a second chance go for Mexico. (Here’s a graphic representing where we import our T-shirts from).

If something is knit go with India, Pakistan, or Bangladesh. I don’t have any numbers to back this up, but it works pretty good.

If someone asks you to guess where their underwear was made, they are trying to pick you up and they could probably care less what you answer. Run or enjoy it.

I’m still working on my methodology, but I’m honing my skills. Actually, I could use some help. Tell me where you are wearing in this comment thread and/or participate each Wednesday on Twitter. I’m starting a new hash tag - #whereamiwearing.

So, today I’m wearing: T-shirt = Honduras / collared shirt = Thailand / jeans = Turkey / boxers = Nicaragua / flipflops = china #whereamiwearing.

How about you?

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Contact Kelsey hi@kelseytimmerman.com

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